Saturday, November 22, 2008

Cabled Koozie

Cabled what?! Yes, that's what they're called. Formerly lame and made out of foam....
They are now FABULOUS and knitted by you!


Materials:
Yarn: 40 yards bulky yarn. Yarn used in sample: Lamb's Pride Bulky.
Hook/Needles: Size J crochet hook, set of US size 10.5 DPNs OR two 24-inch US size 10.5 circular needles, 24 inches long OR one US size 10.5 circular needle, 32-40 inches long. You can knit this koozy in the round using whatever method you prefer: DPNs, two-circulars, or magic loop.

Using crochet hook, CH4. Join in a round with a sl st.
Round 1: Working into the circle, CH1, SC9 (9 sts total).
Round 2: CH1, 2SC in each sc (18 sts*).
Round 3: (SC in next sc, 2SC in next sc) around (27 sts).
*Note: this does not have to be exact. Just SC enough sts to make the circle lie flat.
This forms the bottom of the koozie.

Switching to DPNs or circular needle(s), place the st that was on the hook onto needle. This is your first knit st.
With RS facing, pick up and knit 23 sts evenly around (24 sts total). If you want to be fancy, pick up and K3, pick up and P4, (pick up and K4, pick up and P4) twice (24 sts).
Evenly distribute sts onto needles. Join for working in the round.
Rounds 1-2: (K4, P4) around.
Round 3: (C4L, P4) around.
Rounds 4-6: (K4, P4) around.
Repeat rounds 3-6 until koozie just reaches the point on a beer bottle where it begins to taper.
Decrease round: (K1, K2tog, K1, P1, P2tog, P1) around.
BO using a stretchy bind off such as: K2, *(sl 2 sts back to left needle, K2tog, K1), rep from * around. If you want to be fancy, bind of the knit sts knitwise and the purl sts purlwise.


I-cord edging: (This is probably more easily done using DPNs, but can also be done using the circular needles.) CO 2 onto DPN. Make I-cord long enough to wrap around the bottom of the koozie. Break yarn, leaving an 18-inch tail for sewing on the I-cord. Thread tail through rem sts and pull snug. Using tail, sew I-cord around base of koozie to provide stability and more of a solid, beer-stein look.

Finishing: Weave in ends. Block and let koozie dry on a beer bottle. Enjoy!


Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Bulky Cabled Legwarmers with Buttons


Back by popular demand! These legwarmers are my modern take on the old standard. Quick, easy-to-follow, charted pattern for your knitting pleasure! Thank you to all of you who asked for the pattern back.


Here is a fun and hip pattern for you! Now you don’t need UGGs to be cool! Knit yourself or a friend a pair of fabulous, cabled, knee-high legwarmers! Finish off with chunky buttons and a twisted-cord tie.
This is a charted pattern that includes instructions for making the buttonholes, cables, and the twisted-cord ties.

The pattern is available for free on my blog. Click the link to get started!

Monday, October 20, 2008

Key Cozy Pattern


Here is my pattern for a cute, one-of-a-kind key cozy! Great for stashbusting and last-minute gifts.

Materials:
Scrap of fingering-weight yarn.
US Size 1 dpns or a US size 1 40” circular needle if you prefer to work in the round using the magic loop method (recommended for this project).

Special stitches:
M1R: Insert left-hand needle-tip from back to front under stretch of yarn between stitches. Knit through the front of this loop.
M1L: Insert left-hand needle-tip from front to back under stretch of yarn between stitches. Knit through the back of the loop.

CO 10 sts. Join for working in the round.
Rounds 1-4: Knit. 10 sts total.
Round 5: *M1R, K5, rep from * to end. 12 sts total.
Round 6: *K6, M1L, rep from * to end. 14 sts total.
Round 7: *M1R, K7, M1L, rep from * to end. 18 sts total.
Round 8: Knit. 18 sts total.
Round 9: *SKP, K5, K2TOG, rep from * to end. 14 sts total.
Round 10: *K3, YO, K2TOG, K2, rep from * to end. 14 sts total.
Round 11: * SKP, K3, K2TOG, rep from * to end. 10 sts total.
Round 12: Insert key into cozy, long end first. With key in cozy, work as follows: *SKP, K1, K2TOG, rep from * to end. 6 sts total.
Break yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail. Weave tail through rem. sts. Pull tight and tie a knot. Weave in yarn ends.

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Leaf Bug Root: Pattern for Kate's Birthday Gloves

Leaf-Bug-Root: A fun and lacy glove pattern.

This glove knits up quickly and the lace pattern is engaging yet easy to work and memorize. My favorite part: it does not use a k2tog!

Yarn: Fingering weight.
Needles: DPNs or 40-47" circulars sizes US 3 and 4.
Gauge: 6 sts/in on larger needles in st st.
Abbreviations:
CO: Cast on
PM: Place marker on needle
M1: Make one (insert left needle-tip from front to back under float between sts; k into the back of this loop)
SKP: slip 1 st purlwise, k1, pass slipped st over knitted st
YO: Yarn over
TBL: work through the back loop of the st
KFB: knit into the front and then the back of the st (increases one st to two.)

Shell Pattern (from Nancy Bush's Knitting Vintage Socks) (multiple of 8 sts):
Row 1: *p1, yo, k1, p1, skp, k3, rep from * to end of round.
Row 2: *p1, yo, k2, p1, skp, k2, rep from * to end of round.
Row 3: *p1, yo, k3, p1, skp, k1, rep from * to end of round.
Row 4: *p1, yo, k4, p1, skp, rep from * to end of round.
Row 5: *p1, k5, p1, k1, rep from * to end of round.
Row 6: *p1, skp, k3, p1, yo, k1, rep from * to end of round.
Row 7: *p1, skp, k2, p1, yo, k2, rep from * to end of round.
Row 8: *p1, skp, k1, p1, yo, k3, rep from * to end of round.
Row 9: *p1, skp, p1, yo, k4, rep from * to end of round.
Row 10: *p1, k1, p1, k5, rep from * to end of round.

Right Glove:

Using smaller needles, CO 44 sts.
Join in the round.

If you are doing both gloves at a time using Magic Loop, divide the sts as foll: 26 sts on first half of the needle, 18 sts on the other.

Work in K1 tbl, P1 rib for an inch.
Still working in rib, dec. as foll:
Round 1: *K2tog tbl, work 20 sts in rib, rep from * to end.
Round 2: *work 20 sts in rib, k2togtbl, rep from * to end. (40 sts.)

Using larger needles, begin working in Shell Pattern, placing markers between repeats if desired.
Work in Shell Pattern for 10 rounds, stopping 4 sts before the end of last rnd.

Inc. rnd.: kfb 4th- and 3rd-to-last sts. Transfer last 2 sts to next needle.
Next round: (p1, yo, k1) into next st. (p1, slip) next st. (k1, psso, ktbl) next st. (kfb) next st. PM if you are separating the repeats with markers. (p1, yo, k1) into next st. (p1, slip) next st. (k1, psso) next st. k3. Work rest of round in patt as est. Sorry about this!

Work 1st 32 sts in Shell Pattern (back of hand), last 16 sts in st st (palm of hand) for 5 more rounds.
Continuing in Shell Pattern and st st as established, begin thumb gusset* as foll:

*The thumb is from Brittany's Ultimate in Awesomeness Mittens pattern. It is the best thumb ever and I will never use any other.

Thumb set-up round:
Round 1: k1, place marker on needle, M1, place second marker on needle, work patt. as est. to end of round

Next round: work even slipping markers as you come to them

Thumb gusset increases:

Rnd 1: k1, slip marker, M1, K1, M1, slip marker (3 sts between markers), work patt. as est. to end of round

Rnd 2: work even slipping markers as you come to them.

Repeat rnds 1-2 until there are 15 sts between markers.

Next round: work even slipping markers as you come to them.

Next round: Remove marker, slip 11 thumb sts onto stitch holder or waste yarn, cast on 2 sts, remove second marker, work patt. as est. to end of round.

Work patt. as est. until knitting reaches base of pinky finger.

Finger Set-Up:

Put 8 patterned pinky sts plus 3 adjacent palm pinky sts on waste yarn (11 sts).

Continue working in the round over the remaining 39 sts until knitting reaches top of palm. Place sts on holder or waste yarn.

A note about working the rest of the glove: you can work the fingers in any order you like, following the instructions given for each finger. I like to start with the thumb because with the thumb done you can pull the glove on and really know where it will fit on the hand so you can make the fingers the right length.

Thumb

Transfer thumb sts onto larger DPNs or circular needle. Attach yarn and pick up and knit 8 sts along inside of thumb. 23 sts. Join in the round.

First round: Work in st st, knitting2tog 4 times along the 8 picked up stitches. 19 sts.

Work in st st until thumb measures 2-2.25 in. (Or, better yet, work until you are about one row's distance from the end of the thumb, measured by putting the glove on.)

Decrease round: k2tog around.

Break yarn, leaving a 6" tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave tail through remaining sts and pull top of thumb closed.

Fingers

Pinky Finger: Place 11 sts onto larger needle. Pick up and knit 4 sts between pinky and ring finger. 15 sts. Join in the round. Work in patt. over the 8 sts on the back of the pinky, and in st st on the palm side of the pinky, knitting2tog twice when you first come to your picked-up sts. (13 sts.)

Work as est. until the work is one row's distance from the end of the pinky (measured by putting the glove on.)

Next round: k2tog around.

Break yarn, leaving a 6" tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave tail through remaining sts and pull top of pinky closed.

Ring Finger: Work as for pinky finger, except: place 5 sts adjacent to pinky from palm side of the holder and 8 sts adjacent to pinky from back of the hand onto needle. 14 sts. Pick up and knit 2 sts between pinky and ring finger and 2 sts between ring and middle finger. 18 sts. Work in patt. as est., but when you get to your picked-up sts, (k2tog twice) over the first 4 AND last 4 sts of the st st section of the ring finger. (14 sts.)

Middle Finger: Work as for ring finger, except: pick up and knit 2 sts in between ring and middle finger and 2 sts between pointer and middle finger. 18 sts. Work in patt. as est., but when you get to your picked-up sts, (k2tog twice) over the first 4 and k2tog over the last 2 sts of the st st section of the ring finger. (15 sts.)

Pointer Finger: Work as for middle finger, except: pick up and knit 2 sts in between pointer and middle finger (16 sts). Work in patt. as est., but when you get to your picked-up sts, k2tog over the 2 picked-up sts. (15 sts.)

Weave in remaining tails.

Left Glove:

Work as for right glove, but work thumb as foll.:

Thumb set-up round:
Round 1: k15, PM, M1, PM, work patt. as est. to end of round

Next round: work even slipping markers as you come to them

Thumb gusset increases:

Rnd 1: k15, slip marker, M1, k1, M1, slip marker (3 sts between markers), work patt. as est. to end of round

Rnd 2: work even slipping markers as you come to them.

Repeat rnds 1-2 until there are 15 sts between markers.

Next round: work even slipping markers as you come to them.

Next round: Remove marker, slip 11 thumb sts onto stitch holder or waste yarn, cast on 2 sts, remove second marker, work patt. as est. to end of round.

Or, even better: make both of them at the same time, using the magic loop technique. For more information about working two gloves in the round at once, see my pattern for Beginner Socks: Magic Loop Variation, on this blog.


Monday, July 28, 2008

Cozy Up To My Coffee, or The Zen of Loss



Amber alert! Coffee cozy stolen in the dead of night! Iced coffee left naked! Owner reconciled to disappearance seeing as how I accidentally left coffee with cozy on railing of Stix last night, but still! Stealing a hand-knitted item?! The nerve! I would be ashamed to use a stolen coffee cozy. Today’s lesson: the zen of losing what you love. Know this: everything we love gets lost, or broken, or stolen, it is the way of the world. Love it while you have it; let it go when it is gone. Feel the peace that comes from accepting reality instead of resisting it. Feelings of pain and loss mean we have truly cared. They are just the other side of the coin. Feel them deeply, for they connect us to ourselves and show us our capacity to love.

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Beginner Socks, Magic Loop Variation



Size- Women=s shoe size 5 to 11, (Men=s shoe size 8 to 12)

Materials- Approx. 275 yards sock yarn

One 40” circular needle size 3 (or size required to obtain gauge).

Gauge- in circular stockinette stitch (St st): 7sts to 1 inch.

Abbreviations-

skp - slip 1 as if to knit, k1, pass the slipped st over

sl - slip a st purlwise from the left needle to the right needle

M1tbl – do a M1 but knit it through the back loop (makes an invisible increase with no hole).

Directions are for women=s size, with men=s size in parentheses.

Directions

Beginning at the top of the sock, cast on 56 (64) sts very loosely. I recommend casting onto both ends of the needle held together, then removing one end. This gives a very even, yet loose, cast-on.

Slide sts onto cable. Divide sts in half, bending the ends of the needle towards each other and pulling a loop of cable out at the half-way point. Slide sts back onto needles, with the needles held parallel to one another, and with 28 (32) on each needle. Position sts so that the working yarn is coming off the needle farthest from you. This is “ready position” for magic loop.

Arrange sts so there are no twists in the round.

Pull rear needle-tip out to the right, letting sts slide onto cable. mark the first st of the round (the first st on the front needle) with a marker (or leave the tail hanging to mark the rnd beg. I prefer to hold my tail and the working yarn together for the first 10 sts, thus weaving in the end as I go. But if you do this use a st marker).

Begin round, using the rear needle as the right-hand needle, and knitting sts from left-hand needle onto right-hand needle. Knitting the very first st joins the round.

Rows 1-10: Work in k1, p1 rib.

Next: Work in St st until the sock measures 7 (8) in. from CO edge.

Begin Heel:

K 28 (32) sts (across one half of the round). Pm around a st in this row, marking it as the first row of the heel flap.

Begin working back and forth in St st across these sts, slipping the last st of each row to the right-hand needle without knitting it.

Work as established for 24 (30) rows. You should be ready to work a k row.

Turn heel:

Row 1- k 1, k14 (16) skp, k 1, turn.

Row 2- sl 1, p 3, p 2 tog, p1, turn.

Row 3- sl 1, k 4, skp, k 1, turn.

Row 4- sl 1, p 5, p 2 tog, p1, turn.

Row 5- sl 1, k 6, skp, k 1, turn.

Row 6- sl 1, p 7, p 2 tog, p 1, turn.

Row 7- sl 1, k 8, skp, k 1, turn.

Row 8- sl 1, p 9, p 2 tog, p 1, turn.

Row 9- sl 1, k 10, skp, k 1, turn.

Row 10- sl 1, p 11, p 2 tog, p 1, turn.

Row 11- sl 1, k 12, skp, k 1, turn.

Row 12- sl 1, p 13, p 2 tog, p1, turn.

For the women=s size, the heel is turned, there are 16 sts on the heel needle. Go to ** below.

For the men=s size, continue:

Row 13- sl 1, k 14, skp, k 1, turn.

Row 14- sl 1, p 15, p 2 tog, p1, turn.

The heel is turned; there are 18 sts on the heel needle. Go to ** below.

**Next row- k across the 16 (18) heel sts, and using the same needle, pick up and knit 14 (17) sts along the side of the heel. *Optional:* M1tbl on the instep end of the picked-up sts. This st must be knit together with the adjacent picked-up sts on the very next rnd. This will close the little hole that tends to form when heels are made.

Resume knitting in the round.

k across the instep sts.

Using next needle tip, pick up 14 (17) sts along the other side of the heel. *Optional:* M1tbl on the instep end of the picked-up sts. This st must be knit together with the adjacent picked-up sts on the very next rnd. This will close the little hole that tends to form when heels are made.

Using the same needle, k across all heel sts until there are 3 sts left on left-hand needle: k2tog, k1. (If you have done a M1, this would look like k2tog, k2tog. *Tip:* knit all picked-up sts through the back loop when you first knit them. This will make the heel ever so nice and neat, with no gaps.

You should have 43 (51) sts on the first needle and 28 (32) sts on the second needle (instep).

k across instep.

Shape gusset:

Round 1 (heel needle): k1, skp, k to end.

(instep needle): k all sts.

Round 2 (heel needle): k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

(instep needle): k all sts.

Continue to work these 2 rounds until there are 28 (32) sts on each needle (56 (64) sts in all).

Foot:

Work in St st until foot of sock (including heel) measures 2 in less than desired length. To find the finished length your sock should be, stand barefoot on a sheet of paper. Using a pencil, make a mark in front of your big toe, and another behind your heel. Measure the length between the marks and add 1/4 inch. That is your finished length.

Shape toe-

Round 1 (decrease round): *(k 1, ssk, k to last 3 sts on needle, k 2 tog, k 1), rep from * on other needle (4 sts dec).

Round 2- k.

Continue to work these 2 rounds until there are 20 (24) sts left, 10 (12) on each needle.

Now work the decrease round (round 1) on every round until there are 8 (10) sts left on each needle. Break yarn, leaving a 12” tail, and using a darning needle, graft toe using Kitchener st.

Variation – Two socks at a time on one needle:

The trick to doing two socks at a time is in the cast-on. Knitting the socks remains the same. A 47” circular needle works better for two socks at one time. A needle of at lest 40” is required.

Use two balls of yarn (we’ll call them ball A and ball B).

Using ball A: Loosely cast on half the sts needled for sock (28 (32)), leaving enough of a tail to cast on the rest of the sts later.

Using ball B: Loosely cast on all the sts needed for sock (56 (64)).

Push all CO sts to cable section of circular needle. Count half of the B sts and bend the cable at this point, pulling it out at the halfway point between the B sts. Push the A sts onto one needle point, and, using the A yarn attached at the cable end of the needle, CO the other half of the sts onto the other needle point.

You will now have two separate sets of CO sts on the needle. Place the needle in “ready” position (the working yarns are coming off the back needle), mark the first st of the round with a marker (or leave the tail hanging to mark the rnd beg. I prefer to hold my tail and the working yarn together for the first 10 sts, thus weaving in the end as I go. But if you do this use a st marker).

Begin knitting the sock as given above, working from right to left around the needle, working ½ rnd of A, ½ rnd of B, turning the needle, working ½ rnd of B, and ½ rnd of A. You have now completed one full rnd for each sock.

Tip: to keep your yarn from tangling, do not rotate the balls of yarn as you rotate the needle (you could do this, but it is a pain). Instead, keep the yarn separate by moving it around the socks between the needle tips.


Sunday, June 1, 2008

The Forty-Dollar Coaster



I bought this skein of Temptation to finish my “Fiat Luxe” neck warmer, and what did I do with my leftover half skein? I acted like a true celebrity brat and CROCHETED a COASTER out of it! Ha! That is how little respect I have for this yarn. I would do better to just crochet my next coaster out of 20-dollar bills!

Pattern:
Round 1: Magic circle, 3ch (= turning ch,) 11 dc in magic circle, sl st in 3rd ch of 3ch to join, tighten tail to close loop. - 12 sts.
Round 2: ch 3 (=turning ch,) dc in 1st dc, 2 dc in ea dc around, sl st in 3rd ch of 3 ch to join. - 24 sts.
Round 3: ch 3 (=turning ch,) (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc) around, sl st in 3rd ch of 3 ch to join. - 36 sts.
Block. Starch if desired.

Margarita recipe:
1 shot silver (blanco) tequila
1/2 shot Cointreau
1 shot good-quality margarita mix

Shake with ice in a cocktail shaker, pour over rocks in a chilled margarita glass with a salted rim and a wedge of lime.

FIESTA!



Wednesday, April 9, 2008

A New Facet is Added

Today I have found yet another way to knit for money.

I have volunteered to repair a beautiful wrap that a customer got in Mongolia, because bits of it had been eaten by her cat. The job was turned down by Tracy, our resident garment-fixer, and when the customer came in to pick up her wrap, I offered to do it. I am to repair it in a beautiful, meant-to-be-seen way, using white laceweight Malabrigo to pick up the nibbled stitches and crochet to the edge of the grey, heathered wrap, as well as adding white fringe where the grey fringe was eaten.

I have never crocheted with laceweight yarn.

Go me!

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

The Ideal Number of Projects

Five.

More than five, you don't make noticeable progress on any project. Decreases your desire to knit.
Less than five, you are susceptible to buying random yarn. Increases your desire to spend money.
Exactly five, you knit all the time, because you just could finish one project today or tomorrow and that would be glorious knitting warm fuzzies.

I think I have seven projects in progress right now. Some of them are feeling left out, and I will attend to them shortly (probably when I finish about two projects).